For over 15 years, I've been on a leather-crafted journey, from the intricacies of corsetry to the elegance of women's accessories and evening wear. Along the way, I've explored a world of hides, from classic cowhide to luxurious lambskin and even the exotic ostrich leather. When I first dipped my toes into the leatherworking world, I, like many, started with the trusty chrome-tanned leather. It wasn't until I stumbled upon vegetable-tanned leather that my eyes were opened to a whole new realm. Not only did I fall in love with its quality, but I also discovered a startling truth – the environmental toll of chrome tanning. This journey is not just about leather; it's about a profound shift in perspective that I can't wait to share with you.
In this blog, I’ll share with you a background and essential tips and insights into the world of chrome tanned leather vs vegetable tanned leather, and what we chose to support our sustainability objectives.
Table of Contents
What is Chrome Tanned Leather?
Chrome tanned leather is the faster, more modern approach to leather making and accounts for 90% of leather in the world and was developed during the industrial revolution, so it’s a much younger method. Instead of plants, it relies on chromium salts, formaldehyde, and arsenic to do the tanning, resulting in softer and more flexible leather.
A boy stands on a pile of leather scraps beside a canal in Hazaribagh. (Source)
Exposure to these chemicals is a real health concern for the tannery workers. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic coughing, skin problems, and, in the worst cases, even cancer. It's a serious issue, especially in countries like Bangladesh, India, and China, where environmental regulations and worker safety measures aren't as strict as we'd hope.
Raw hides are soaked in lime and sodium sulphide to remove hair and fat. (Source)
It’s in these places where most of the world's chrome tanneries are based. Unfortunately, these tanneries release hazardous wastewater effluent and solid waste, pump out air pollutants, and expose the surrounding villages to harmful chemicals.
The upside is, it's budget-friendly and fantastic for mass production. However, there's an eco-dilemma here. The process involves some not-so-environmentally-friendly chemicals and waste. On the bright side, it's water-resistant, which can be handy for certain uses. The not-so-great part is that it doesn't age quite like its vegetable-tanned cousin, so you won't see that charming patina develop. If you're looking for a wallet-friendly, water-repellent option and can overlook the environmental concerns, chrome tanned leather might be your match. Your call!
What is Vegetable Tanned Leather?
So, what's this whole deal with vegetable tanned leather, you might wonder?
Well, it's born from centuries-old technique of turning animal hides into beautiful leather. The secret ingredient here is tannins, which are natural extracts from plants, like oak bark or chestnut. This process takes a bit more time and master craftsmanship, but it's worth it. You end up with leather that's tough, with a lovely earthy scent.
The liquor in the pits ensures that the tanning agents reach all parts of the hide, including the inner layers, to achieve uniform tanning. (Source)
It's interesting to note that vegetable tanned leather is a bit of a rarity in the leather realm, Vegetable tanned leather has existed for thousands of years but makes up only 10% of all the leather available today. This remarkable transformation takes several months of patient craftsmanship, quite unlike the speedy 54 hours it takes for chrome tanning. What's more, vegetable tanned leather is often seen as the gold standard when it comes to quality and durability. It's the one that's going to stand the test of time, unlike its chrome tanned cousin.
What's also great about it is that it's kinder to the environment, being biodegradable and free from harsh chemicals. The only downside? It can be a tad pricier. Over time, though, it develops this unique, vintage-like patina, which many folks adore. So, if you're into sustainability and character, vegetable tanned leather is your friend.
What are tannins?
Tannins are like the secret sauce of leather making, but they're not just leather's best friend. These natural compounds are found in various plants, like oak bark, chestnuts, quebracho, mimosa bark and even tea leaves. There are over 300 different plant species worldwide that can be used for tanning. Many of these plants used for leather tanning can require up to 30 years of growth, to allow sufficient amounts of tannins to be produced.
When it comes to leather, tannins play a vital role in transforming animal hides into durable, workable leather. They're like nature's own preservative. If you're wondering why red wine has that lovely bitterness or tea has a certain astringency, it's tannins at play!
In the world of vegetable-tanned leather, these plant-derived tannins are used in the tanning process, creating eco-friendly, biodegradable, and wonderfully scented leather. They work their magic by bonding with collagen proteins in the hide, protecting the leather from bacteria and ensuring it stands the test of time and develops that sought-after, unique patina.
Tannins are like the unsung heroes behind leather's quality and character.
Does vegetable tanned leather require the killing of animals?
Absolutely not!
The great news for animal lovers like me, is that vegetable tanned leather doesn't necessitate harming animals for their hide. Unlike some exotic leather types, vegetable tanning primarily uses hides from animals that are raised for food, like cows and pigs. This means the leather comes from a by-product of the meat industry, so no additional harm is caused just for leather production. It's a sustainable and ethical way to use the entire animal, ensuring that nothing goes to waste. So, if you're concerned about animal welfare, vegetable tanned leather can offer peace of mind while enjoying the beauty of leather goods.
Can tannins cause allergies?
Tannins, those fascinating compounds found in plants and used in the tanning of leather, are generally not known to be common allergens. In fact, vegetable tanned leather is particularly suitable for those with allergies. The process of vegetable tanning is carried out without the use of toxic substances or heavy metals. Being of vegetable origin, tannins are absolutely safe even for the most sensitive skins, including children.
On the contrary, chrome tanned leather, which doesn't use these natural tannins, could give rise to hives or even allergic dermatitis in some individuals. While tannins themselves are typically not the culprits in allergies, those with sensitivities might experience skin reactions when exposed to high concentrations. However, this is more of an exception than the rule, and most people can comfortably enjoy products made from vegetable-tanned leather without any issues.
Please take note - If you have concerns or known allergies, it's always a good idea to seek professional medical advice for personalized guidance. Your health should be your top priority.
Our vegetable tanned leather.
When it comes to choosing the leather for our products, we're all about quality. Our vegetable-tanned leather hails from one of Europe's longest-standing tanneries with a rich history.
Here's how it works: They kick off the process by getting their hands on premium Scandinavian cowhides, and the magic happens in Belgium. What makes it special? It's all about the natural and organic tannins used in the vats, giving our leather its distinct character.
But we don't stop there. I'm picky about the leather we use. All our products are crafted from the Single Bend cut of the hide, known for its remarkable durability, minimal stretch, and few blemishes. And to make sure we get the best of the best, I personally roll up my sleeves and inspect every hide, handpicking those with the fewest blemishes and imperfections. Once we've got the cream of the crop, I bring the hides back to my studio, where the cutting and staining process begins. This hands-on approach means we have total control over the quality every step of the way.
What is the Best Leather for Patina?
When it comes to achieving that sought-after leather patina – that beautiful, unique sheen and character that develops over time – vegetable-tanned leather takes the cake. This type of leather is like a canvas waiting to be painted by your adventures and daily use. It ages gracefully, transforming as it absorbs oils and colours from your environment. As it evolves, you'll notice a deepening of hues, a softening of the texture, and the development of rich, individual character marks.
The beauty of vegetable-tanned leather lies in its ability to tell your story, making it an ideal choice for those who appreciate the journey as much as the destination.
So, if you're after a leather product that gets better with age, embrace the magic of vegetable-tanned leather and let your story be written in every patina mark.
Our Leather Dye and Conditioner.
Once we've got those carefully selected leather pieces cut, it's time to stain them with colour. We take an eco-friendly route by using water-based stains that are kind to the environment. What's more, our finish is a special blend of natural and synthetic waxes, sourced from a family-run company in Italy. To minimize waste, we take a hands-on approach and individually hand-stain each piece of leather.
But we don't stop at just colour; we believe in keeping your leather products in top shape. So, before we package them up, we treat each piece with Smith’s leather balm. Smith’s All Natural is a small family-run business based in Maine, USA. They're all about keeping it clean - no toxic chemicals, no animal products, and no preservatives.
Their recipe is simple but effective:
- 100% organic cocoa butter
- Beeswax, and
- Pure almond oil.
Your leather gets nothing but the best, just the way you deserve!
How to shop for leather products.
When buying your leather products, you may want to consider some of the following questions so that you can make a more informed decision when shopping for leather products. Your choices matter, and by considering these factors, you’re not just buying a product, you’re supporting sustainability, quality, and ethics.-
What tanning method was used for this leather product – vegetable-tanned or chrome tanned?
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Is the tanning process eco-friendly, using natural tannins and minimal chemicals?
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Were animals harmed specifically for their hides, or is the leather a by-product of the meat industry?
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Is the leather made from the most durable section of the hide to ensure strength and minimal blemishes?
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Where does the leather come from, and is it sustainably sourced?
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Are the tanneries that produce the leather known for safe and ethical labor practices?
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What materials are used for dyeing and finishing, and are they eco-friendly?
Sources:
2. Leather Dictionary
3. Tannins.org
4. Business Insider
5. UNDARK.org
6. Worst Polluted.org
7. Official Journal of the European Union
8. Tandy Leather
9. Smiths All Natural