What is Vegetable Tanned Leather?

 

I have been immersed in the world of leather craft for over 15 years, designing everything from corsetry to women's accessories and evening wear. Throughout my journey, I have worked with a variety of hides, including cowhide, lambskin, and ostrich leather. Initially, I started with chrome-tanned leather hides like many others, but my perspective changed when I discovered vegetable-tanned leather. This new material opened up a whole new realm of possibilities for me in the world of leather crafting.

In this blog post, I will provide a detailed comparison of chrome-tanned leather and vegetable-tanned leather, along with essential tips and insights. I will also explain the reasons behind our choice to support sustainability through our selection of leather.

Table of Contents 

What is Chrome-Tanned Leather?

Chrome-tanned leather is a contemporary and efficient method of leather production, making up 90% of the world's leather supply. Developed during the Industrial Revolution, this method is relatively new compared to traditional vegetable tanning. Instead of using natural plant extracts, chrome tanning utilizes chromium salts, formaldehyde, and arsenic to tan the leather, resulting in a softer and more flexible material.

A boy stands on a pile of leather scraps beside a canal in Hazaribagh. (Source)

Exposure to these chemicals presents a significant health risk for tannery workers. Prolonged exposure can result in chronic coughing, skin conditions, and, in severe cases, cancer. This is a pressing issue, particularly in countries such as Bangladesh, India, and China, where environmental regulations and worker safety protocols may not be as stringent as those in Western countries.

Raw hides are soaked in lime and sodium sulfide to remove hair and fat. (Source)

Most of the world's chrome tanneries are located in these areas, where they unfortunately release hazardous wastewater effluent and solid waste, emit air pollutants, and expose nearby villages to harmful chemicals.

One benefit of this production method is its cost-effectiveness and suitability for large-scale manufacturing. However, there is a concern regarding its environmental impact due to the use of chemicals and the generation of waste. On a positive note, the material is water-resistant, making it useful for specific applications. Nonetheless, it does not age as gracefully as vegetable-tanned leather, lacking the charming patina that develops over time.

If you are searching for a cost-effective and water-resistant option, chrome-tanned leather could be a suitable choice for you. Just keep in mind the environmental implications when making your decision.

 

What is Vegetable-Tanned Leather?

Have you ever wondered about the process of vegetable-tanned leather? This traditional technique, dating back centuries, involves using tannins extracted from plants such as oak bark or chestnut to transform animal hides into high-quality leather. Although it requires more time and skill, the result is durable leather with a unique earthy aroma.

The liquor in the pits ensures that the tanning agents reach all parts of the hide, including the inner layers, to achieve uniform tanning. (Source)

It is worth mentioning that vegetable-tanned leather is not very common in the leather industry. Despite being around for thousands of years, it only accounts for 10% of the leather that is currently produced. This process requires several months of careful craftsmanship, unlike chrome tanning which can be completed in just 54 hours.

Additionally, vegetable-tanned leather is widely regarded as the top choice for quality and longevity. Unlike chrome-tanned leather, vegetable-tanned leather is known for its ability to withstand the test of time.
 
One of the great benefits of vegetable-tanned leather is its environmental friendliness, as it is biodegradable and free from harsh chemicals. The only drawback is that it can be more expensive. However, over time, it develops a unique, vintage-like patina that many people love. If you value sustainability and character in your leather products, vegetable tanned leather is the way to go.

 

What are Tannins?

Tannins are a crucial component in the process of leather making, acting as the secret ingredient that gives the leather its durability and quality. However, tannins are not exclusive to leather production; they are naturally occurring compounds found in a variety of plants such as oak bark, chestnuts, quebracho, mimosa bark, and even tea leaves. With over 300 different plant species worldwide containing tannins, they play a significant role in various industries beyond just leather tanning.

Numerous plants utilized in the leather tanning process may take up to three decades to reach maturity to produce adequate levels of tannins. Tannins are essential for turning animal hides into strong, usable leather, acting as a natural preservative. They're like nature's own preservative. If you're wondering why red wine has that lovely bitterness or tea has a certain astringency, it's tannins at play! 

In the realm of vegetable-tanned leather, plant-derived tannins play a crucial role in the tanning process. This results in the production of eco-friendly, biodegradable leather that also carries a pleasant scent. The tannins work by binding with collagen proteins in the hide, providing protection against bacteria and ensuring the leather's durability over time. Additionally, this process allows the leather to develop a distinctive patina that is highly desired by many.

Tannins are like the unsung heroes behind leather's quality and character.

 

Does Vegetable-Tanned Leather Require the Killing of Animals?

Absolutely not!
 
For animal lovers like myself, the good news is that vegetable-tanned leather does not require animals to be harmed for their hide. Unlike exotic leather varieties, vegetable tanning primarily utilizes hides from animals that are raised for food, such as cows and pigs. This means that the leather is a by-product of the meat industry, eliminating the need for additional harm to be caused solely for leather production. It is a sustainable and ethical practice that ensures the whole animal is utilized, preventing any waste. If you prioritize animal welfare, you can find peace of mind in choosing vegetable-tanned leather for your goods. This sustainable option allows you to enjoy the beauty of leather products while supporting ethical practices.

 

Can Tannins Cause Allergies?

Tannins, the interesting compounds found in plants and utilized in leather tanning, are typically not recognized as common allergens. Surprisingly, vegetable-tanned leather is especially suitable for individuals with allergies. The vegetable tanning process is conducted without the use of harmful substances or heavy metals. Since tannins are of plant origin, they are safe even for those with the most sensitive skin, including children.
 
In contrast, chrome-tanned leather, which does not utilize natural tannins, can potentially cause skin reactions such as hives or allergic dermatitis in certain individuals. Although tannins are not usually the direct cause of allergies, those with sensitivities may experience adverse effects when exposed to high concentrations. Fortunately, this is not common, and the majority of people can safely use products made from vegetable-tanned leather without any problems.
 
Please take note - If you have any concerns or known allergies, it is recommended to consult with a healthcare professional for personalized advice. Your health should always be your number one priority.

 

Our Vegetable-Tanned Leather.

 

When selecting the leather for our products, we prioritize quality above all else. Our vegetable-tanned leather comes from Wickett & Craig Tannery, a company with over 150 years of experience in perfecting the traditional craft of vegetable tanning.

To ensure the highest quality, I personally inspect and select each hide from our distributors, choosing only those with the least amount of blemishes and imperfections. Once we have selected the best hides, they are brought back to our studio where the cutting and staining process begins. This hands-on approach allows us to maintain total control over the quality at every step of the way.

For more information about the tanning process by Wickett & Craig Tannery, please click here. 
 

What is the Best Leather for Patina?

When it comes to achieving a beautiful leather patina, vegetable-tanned leather is the only way to go. This type of leather acts as a canvas that develops a unique sheen and character over time through daily use and adventures. It ages gracefully, absorbing oils and colors from its environment, resulting in deepening hues, a softer texture, and the development of rich, individual character marks.

The appeal of vegetable-tanned leather lies in its unique ability to capture and reflect the wearer's individual journey. For those who value the process as much as the end result, this type of leather is the perfect choice. 

If you desire a product that ages beautifully over time, embrace the timeless quality of vegetable-tanned leather and let your personal story be etched into every patina mark.

Our Leather Dye and Conditioner.

After cutting the carefully selected leather pieces, we proceed to stain them with color. We prioritize eco-friendliness by using water-based stains that are gentle on the environment. Additionally, our finish consists of a unique combination of natural and synthetic waxes sourced from a family-run company in Italy. To reduce waste, we hand-stain each piece of leather individually.

However, we don't just focus on color; we also prioritize the maintenance of your leather products. Before packaging, each piece is treated with Smith's leather balm. Smith's All Natural is a small family-owned business located in Maine, USA. They're all about keeping it clean - no toxic chemicals, no animal products, and no preservatives.

Their recipe is simple but effective: 

• 100% organic cocoa butter
• Beeswax, and
• Pure almond oil.

You deserve nothing but the best, and that is exactly what we provide. Rest assured that your leather goods will be treated with care and attention to detail.

 

How to Shop for Leather Products.

When purchasing leather products, it is essential to ask yourself certain questions to make a well-informed decision. Your choices have a significant impact, so by taking into account factors such as sustainability, quality, and ethics, you are not just buying a product, but also supporting important values.

1. What tanning method was used for this leather product – vegetable-tanned or chrome-tanned?

2. Is the tanning process eco-friendly, using natural tannins and minimal chemicals?

3. Were animals harmed specifically for their hides, or is the leather a by-product of the meat industry?

4. Is the leather made from the most durable section of the hide to ensure strength and minimal blemishes?

5. Where does the leather come from, and is it sustainably sourced?

6. Are the tanneries that produce the leather known for safe and ethical labor practices?

7. What materials are used for dyeing and finishing, and are they eco-friendly?

 
Sources:

1. mLive Michigan
2. Leather Dictionary
3. Tannins.org
4. Business Insider
5. UNDARK.org
6. Worst Polluted.org
7. Official Journal of the European Union
8. Tandy Leather
9. Smiths All Natural